St. Martin's day

It arrived without waning, in the form of packs of kids banging pots. Just a bit more than a week after Halloween but with a similar theme, Saint Martin's day seems to be all about making threats to garner treats. What this has to do with a saint is anybody's guess. Before Friday, before all the racket began, I knew nothing about Saint Martin, and I know little more now, but I'll tell you what I've found out.

Martin was a soldier and also a beggar. One particularly freezing day, when no one would give him any food and he had only the cloak on his back for warmth (having already misplaced all his clothes), he came across another beggar even worse off than him. This other beggar had no clothing at all, and although people were passing by wearing full cold-weather outfits, no one would give him a thing. So Martin took his sword (which he still had from his soldier days), and sliced his cloak in half - half for him and half for the other beggar. That night he dreamt of Jesus and angels and Jesus wearing half his cloak. After that he got baptised and a horse and performed miracles, as saints are want to do.

A pack of school kids banging pot lids.
They have just come out of one shop and are about to enter another.

Somehow, in Venice at least, this story has been translated into a day of children trolling the streets, singing songs demanding treats or money and threatening nasty consequences against those who don't deliver. It really is a terrible din. (They had successful looking bags of bounty though, so it obviously works.)  Some wear costumes, most don't. Smaller children seemed more keen for the costumes, wearing colourful hats with horse motifs and sometimes a cape type cloak.

These biscuits seem to be the customary foodstuff of the celebration.
In the shape of Martin on his horse with his sword, they are decorated in brightly coloured icing and lollies, special chocolates and coins. 

A window display of the biscuits.
They are horrendously expensive for some over-packaged, over-iced gingerbread men type cookie.

The church of Saint Martin is around by Arsenale, on our main route to and from work, although I've never been inside. That night when we passed they were having a bit of a festa. There was a small stage set up where old people were singing karaoke, and stalls selling food and drinks.

Svetislava and Finn with cicheti and wine outside the church.

It was a really cold night. A shock for Finn who had just returned from t-shirt weather in Rome.

Me with a cone of hot chestnuts fresh from the fire.

At about this point the karaoke stopped and there was a procession through the crowd and into the church of men wearing long white robes, but I was too busy with my chestnuts to get any pictures.

The chestnuts being stirred above the fire.

Then it was well time to get home and warm up.

I made Finn tagliatelle with prawns and cheery tomatoes, and buttered spinach, for welcome home dinner.
An old favourite from Melboune. Brain squeezing delicious fingers and forks food.

15 November 2011