Festa del Redentore

Giving thanks for the end of the plague in 1576, this is (apparently - according to locals we have talked to about it) the last of Venice's festivals still celebrated and enjoyed by Venetians. Maybe what they mean is that they no longer have Carnival (that has gone the way of the tourists), but they do still have Redentore. It seems like they also still have plenty of local sagra as well.

Well, regardless of all that, by 6pm last Saturday the party atmosphere of Venice was as contagious as the plague it marked the end of. The Giudecca Canal was closed to all boats over about 3 metres in height (so not a cruise ship in sight), and it was packed with party boats. The temporary bridge between Zattere and Chiesa del Santissimo Redentore (Church of the Most Holy Redeemer) on La Giudecca was crowded with people walking between the islands. The bridge is a recreation of the bridge of barges the Doge of Venice walked across when the the church foundation stone was laid, and once year after the church was built. (The church being commissioned by the Doge at the end of the plague.) So many Venetians were making this pilgrimage across the canal and into the church for holy communion.

This is a really big party night for Venice. The whole southern edge of Venice, from the eastern to western tips, and the northern edge of La Giudecca are are lined with people. Restaurants and private parties alike stake claims on sections of the canal edge. There are candle-lit tables for two, long family dining tables, picnic rugs, and many many lanterns. Everyone jostling for the best fireworks viewing spot, when really every spot is the best spot.

Fishing trawlers / party boats starting to party.
(And restaurants setting up along every available edge) 

We stop for a spritz of every colour on our way from the giardini to Zattere.  

And there's the bridge. Not so much a pilgrimage as party bridge really. 

Looking down the length of the bridge to Chiesa del Santissimo Redentore. 

Bridge, boats, sunset.

Arnel and Finn, crazy monkeys.

The Giudecca canal filling with party boats.
(Looking towards San Marco from the bridge.)

The best canal-side-private-party-setup we saw - an old sun umbrella frame strung with lights and lanterns.  

And fireworks.
For a full 40 minutes.
Awesome.

We wound up first back at a biennale party at the giradini, and then further along to another party at Sant'Elena. The fireworks display really was fantastic, and long long, the dominant colours unsurprisingly being red, white, and green (just not in the shot I took). Afterwards we party-pooperly opted out of the dancing-till-dawn at Lido after-party and just went home. Happy.

21 July 2011